Szeged Online

Szeged is the largest city of the Southern Great-Plain with 170 000 inhabitants. It is the fourth largest city in the country (including Budapest). The University of Szeged is one of the best and most popular universities of Hungary.

Climate of Szeged

Spring Weather in Szeged

Szeged is often referred as the ’City of Sunshine’ due to the number of sunny hours annually, which is the highest in Hungary (more than 2100 hours!). The climate of Szeged – as opposed to other Hungarian settlements – is sub-mediterranean, that is, winter is milder and summers are warmer than the average. The average medium temperature is 11, 2 °C and the average precipitation is 520 mm.

The town is situated in a basin which accounts for the warmer climate. Szeged is the town closest to the sea level (82 meters above), and Gyálarét is the deepest point with 75.8 meters above the sea level.

 

Early history of Szeged

Szeged was built on the right bank of the river Tisza where the Tisza with the river Maros merges. This area has been inhabitated since ancient times, ca. from 5000 B.C. onwards. However, we also have 25 000 years old archeological findings originated from mammut hunters.

During the Bronze Age new settlers came, among them the kurgans who built many dirt pyramids on the territory east to the Tisza. Then came another tribe from the Balcan with advanced agricultural skills who already used carriages. Their burial place is to be found near Szőreg. In the Iron Age signuennas and agathursos settled in this area, from who the word ’Tisza’ came. The Celts brought in iron which triggered massive trade on weapons.

Later the settlement served as an important center for commerce for the Romans connected to a trade route. Its name was Parthiscus at that time. Gold and salt transports from Dacia came to Pannónia through Szeged. The Romans called in sarmata tribes to settle here in order to protect the borders of their empires in the 2nd century B.C. In 3rd cent. B.C. a German tribe called gepida overran the sarmatas.

 

Hungarians in Szeged

Due to its advantageous location it became the headquarter of the Hungarian Emperor tribe. Under the reign of St. István its population was already fully Hungarian. The name of the city (Ciggedin) was first mentioned in a charter in 1183.

Szeged had been a commercial center of the salt trade route for a very long time, the stone fortress of the city was built to protect the salt trade route. It was given a ’town’ status and privileges in 1246 which only Buda and Székesfehérvár had at that time. By the 14th century it became a significant trade center due to the continuous development of crafts and the right given by the king to organize fairs.

When hearing the latest news of the Turks approaching, Sigmund von Luxembourg got a wall built around the town. Szeged became the headquarter of the armies participating in the military campaign against the Turks, and a starting point to every military operation to the South. The city acquired not only strategic importance but also in terms of the church, mostly due to the contribution of the Hunyadi family. It received a free royal town status from Ulaszlo II. Its population was 7000 in 1522, just as many as of Buda and Pest.

 

The Turkish Reign

The Turkish invasions caused tremendous upheavals in Szeged and made a significant decrease in its population. As it later became a town of the Turkish treasury, its population began to grow slowly, because such rights were given which made it more attractive than the majority of other settlements. In the middle of forties there were already 8000 people living here.

In 1552 after 25 years of Turkish reign attempts were made to deliberate the town. The deliberation army did not succeed and they were so disappointed that they started to plunder.

People left the town and the number of the population decreased to 1500 persons. After the deliberaton from the Turkish reign in 1686, salt trade became the main economic base of the town. From military point of view it gained in importance again and served as a starting point to military operations until the Turks were finally driven out.

 

The Day of Szeged

On May 21st, 1719 Szeged was declared to a free royal town and a charter was given from Charles III including a coat of arms which is still used by Szeged. This day is celebrated in every year with a few days’ series of events. In 2011 the Szeged Napja Ünnepségsorozat takes place between 13th and 22nd of May.

The coming of Piarist Order monks has contributed enormously to the cultural development of the town. They opened up the first grammar school of Szeged where one of Szeged’s renowned personality, András Dugonics was a student too. It bears his name today: Dugonics András Piarista Gimnázium, Szakképző Iskola, Alapfokú Művészetoktatási Intézmény és Kollégium.

 

Witch Trials in Szeged

The beginning of the 18. century was marked by flood, destitution and homelessness. In the twenties there were big drought and political turmoil. In 1728 a devastating ice storm swept over Szeged which ruined everything. It was considered by the local clergy and population as the hand of the devil itself. This was the prelude which prepared the way to the famous Wich Trials of Szeged.

The first trials were held in 1728 and 1729. 18 people altogether, man and women, mostly beggars, midwifes were sentenced. All but one were elderly people. Rózsa Dániel, aged 82, one of the richest citizens of the town was accused of being the leader of the witches. The fact, that he got rich was unacceptable for the public, they attributed it to some kind of magic. Most of the defendants were burnt alive on bonfires on the area called Boszorkánysziget (Witches’ Island). There were several trials against ”witches”, one woman was sentenced to death, the others were chased away from the town. This was the last bonfire in the town, trials were banned by Maria Theresa in 1756. In addition to famine and trials this period was also marked by pest. The epidemic started in 1738 and the death toll was several hundred people.

The Role of Szeged Played in the Freedom Fight in 1848-49.

The news on the Freedom Fight arrived in Szeged on 17th March 1848 and its 12 points of the list of demands was publicly read the next day. Lajos Kossuth succeeded in recruiting many young people from Szeged. During the Freedom Fight Szeged was one of the headquarters of the revolutionary government and Lajos Kossuth made his last speech in Szeged too on 12th July 1849.

Railway lines spread throughout the land and reached Szeged too, which accelerated the development of the town. Railway connection was established to Pest first, then later to the other direction to Temesvár. Mark Pick’s butchery, predecessor of the world-famous Pick Salami Factory was established in 1869.

The Great Flood of Szeged

At the dawn of 12th March 1879 Szeged faced the greatest catastrophe ever throughout its history. The swelling up river Tisza broke through a river bank and destroyed almost the whole town. Only 265 houses remained intact out of 5723 and 150 lives were lost. The town was covered with water 186 days long. At that time the town had 70 000 inhabitants out of which around 60 000 left Szeged.

Reconstruction started in 1880 under the guidance of Lajos Tisza. It took 4 years. The old city structure was entirely replaced with a new one. The recent ring and boulevard road system was designed by Lajos Lechner. The Big Ring is divided into sections and every section is named after an European big city that contributed to the reconstruction. Szeged and Újszeged (the other side of the Tisza) was connected at that time too.

In the newly built town omnibuses were replaced by horse-drawn streetcars. The first electric tram was put into operation in the Oktober of 1908 between the railway station and the downtown. It was used to carry not only passengers but freight as well.

World Wars

Around 18 000 soldiers were called for military service from Szeged and its immediate environment and ca. 2/3 lost their lives on the front line. Szeged lost not only its heroic sons but also great part of its surroundings because they were cut off from the town by a new border line, according to the Trianon Peace Treaty. This loss later turned out to be an advantage because Szeged was able to take over major part of the roles of many other disconnected cities. This has further contributed to the significance of the city. The University of Kolozsvár moved to Szeged when the Trianon Peace Treaty ceded the province of Transylvania to Romania.

Reinforced by the course of events it was made the centre of Csanád church district for the second time in the history of the town. This status was given in 1723 first, however it did not last long, it took only 10 years. The first  Szeged Szabadtéri Játékok (Open Air Plays of Szeged) were organised in 1931 for the first time and are still very popular.

During WWII Szeged and its surroundings were bombed six times. Many buildings were damaged. The Jewish population of Szeged were moved first to the ghetto and then deported in 1944. It was the same year when the soviet Red Army besieged Szeged which made even greater damage to the town. More than 4700 city residents died on the fron lines and in the city.

Szeged up to the present day

After WWII development set slowly into motion. In the sixties the light industry and the food processing industry has started to develop, factories were built and agriculture has started to flourish. Szeged become the county seat of Csongrád county. In 1965 oil was found on the fields around the city which gave the industry a kick-start.

In 1970 there was high water on the Tisza again, even higher than in 1879, however, thanks to the preparations the catasthrophe could be avoided. The first tolley bus line started to operate in 1979. After the regime change many factories went bankrupt, e.g. the rubber and tyre factory, the match factory, the clothing factory and the canning factory which has lead to a heavy setback of the economy.

The Economy of Szeged

Contrary to the close-down of many factories the city still plays a very significant role in the economical life of the South region. It is one of Hungary’s food processing industry centres thanks to the good agricultural conditions and the food factories in and around the city.

The location of Szeged is also favourable in terms of logistics. The M5 highway reached Szeged in 2005 and the M43 ring around the city will be ready in March. Because of the city’s proximity to the borders, Szeged is an important meeting point of traders to Romania and Serbia.

The world-renowned Pick Salami Factory with great traditions is also here just like the leading Hungarian milk company, Sole-Mizo Zrt that also has its headquarter there. The city and its surroundings is nationwide outstanding in growing spice paprika.

Sights of Szeged City

Szeged attracts many visitors in every year. In addition to the numerous festivals and events (like Open Air Plays of Szeged) the city has many popular tourist attractions.

The Cathedral (Hungarian: Dóm) and the Dóm Square

 

The building of this monumental cathedral is connected to the Great Flood. After this terrible catastrophe the city leaders took a pledge to build a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, if the town would ever be rebuilt. They kept what they promised, however with many years’ delay.

Finally, construction works started in 1913 according to the plans of Ernő Foerk. However, the first World War broke out and the building works must be cancelled. After the war it took years to collect enough money to get on with it. Finally, between 1923 and 1930 the monumental building which is one of Szeged’s major attraction was finished.

The Dóm Square is a monumental public space with a total area of 12,000 m² (just as big as Venice’s Saint Mark’s Square).. It is the location for the annual Open Air Plays of Szeged. A huge stage and seats for the viewers is built every year for the event. The Somogyi Library and the Dömötör-torony ( a tower of an ancient church, found when the cathedral was built) can also be found here.

Square of the Martyrs of Arad

Passing through arched gates towards Boldogasszony sugárút we arrive at the Square of the Martyrs of Arad (Aradi vértanúk tere). This place is always crowded because of one of the central tram stops of tram No. 1. In front of the Dean’s Office of the Faculty of Science of the University of Szeged there is a memorial pillar of the battle of Szőreg, with a turul bird (from Hungarian mithology) on the top of that. On the bottom of the pillar there is a marble plaque with the names of the martyrs of Arad on it.

There is an another statue in front of the Bishop’s Palace here depicting Ferenc Rákóczi II on horseback. The major attraction of the square is Gate of the Heroes. It is dedicated to the memory of 12 000 soldiers who fell in WW1. On the arch there is a painting by Vilmos Aba-Novák which is the greatest outdoor painting in Europe.

The Széchenyi Square

The Széchényi Tér is a huge square (more than 50 thousand square meter) with park. City dwellers like spending their leisure time here among familiar parkways, many statues and a fountain. Due to its dimensions and central location several events are organised here. In winter there is a Christmas fair and the Toros Pálinka Fesztivál, in spring we find here the Szeged Napja Event Series. There are also community events organised by the local government of Szeged throughout the whole year.

You can find the City Hall, the central post office, the Tisza Hotel and the Zsótér House here. The statues depict persons who were of crucial importance for Szeged. István Széchenyi, Pál Vásárhelyi, Lajos Tisza, Ferenc Deák, Kunó Klebelsberg, St. István and Gizella. In the fountain in front of the City Hall there are two statues of symbolic meaning: one represents the Tisza that brings damage and the other is the other Tisza that brings blessing.

Walk to Dugonics tér

If we leave Széchényi tér and walk towards Dugonics tér we find ourselves on Szeged’s main promenade the Kárász street. There are mainly boutiques and restaurants here. Coming from Széchenyi tér we can see the statue composition ”Greetings” whereas when leaving the street we can see another group of statues called Utcai Zene which means ’street music’.

In the middle of the Kárász utca we find a square, the Klauzál tér. There are two statutes standing here: one is of Lajos Kossuth, the other called Királyok Kútja (The King’s Well). The former is here because it was also here, in the Kárász house where Lajos Kossuth held his last speech in Hungary. This house is also famous for Franz Joseph’s sleeping here when visiting Szeged in 1857.

The Dugonics Square

The Dugonics Sqare with a fountain that plays music is one of the most popular hangout for young people. Also present is a statue of András Dugonics with Etelka in his hand. (Etelka was the first Hungarian novel). We can also see the recently renovated main building of the University of Szeged here. Next to the building stands the statue of Attila József, a famous poet, because his famous incident that he mentioned in one of his poems with the „weird master of the university”, that is, with Antal Horger was here, in this building too.

Various fairs, events often take place here. In many occasions a stage is set up in front of the main building where singers, dancers etc. Perform.

Móra Ferenc Múzeum

 

The history of the Somogyi Library (Somogyi-könyvtár) and the museum’s is bound together. The library was founded after the Great Flood when Károly Somogyi presented Szeged with his great library. Later coin collection, antiquities, folk items were added to the library.

The Palace of Public Education (Közművelődési Palota) was opened up in 1896 with many exhibitions. The final division of the library and the museum took place in 1950. The museum was given the name of Ferenc Móra. The museum now has around 250 000 items and visitors find here permanent and temporary exhibitions as well.

The National Theatre

The National Theatre is not far from the Móra Ferenc Múzeum. It was built in 1883, however one and a half year later it burned to the ground. It was reopened in 1886. The rebuilding works were made by the same companies and entrepreneurs, however, the new building was redesigned to be more fire-safe. On the facade we can see the statues of József Katona and Ferenc Erkel.

Anna Spa and Bath

The Anna Bath, officially named – Anna Medical, Thermal and Experience Bath was built in 1896 together with the museum building on the occassion of the 1000 years anniversary of the Hungarian landtaking. The building is almost 120 metres wide and built in an eclectic style. It provides excellent opportunity to relax for both young and elderly visitors.  Former like mostly wellness and night baths while latter prefer baths for medical purposes.

The thermal water source was discovered in 1927 and was named Anna after the daughter of the entrepreneur. The water was soon used in the bath to make it a real curative bath.

There is a well next to the bath building which is available to everyone. We can see all day long the people of Szeged taking the water away in cans. The curative water is good for skin diseases, stomach and gut issues, for respiratory and joint problems.

The Reök Palace and Regional United Arts Center

The Reök Palace was built in secessive style according to the plans of Ede Magyar in 1907. The orderer was Iván Reök, culture engineer, MP and the leader of the River Engineering Office. On the one hand, the building was meant to be divided into several smaller flats for his family members. On the other hand, some parts were designed to be rented as flats and shops.

The building has gradually lost its former grandeur. After WWII the huge rooms were remodeled to be small rental units. The forged iron ornaments were cut down or changed – in a simplified version. From 1992 on, the whole building was empty and was waiting in a very bad condition for the opportunity to be renovated.

The city leaders decided to restore the building, to get the yard covered with a roof and operate the building as a gallery in 2004. Finally, in 2007 in its original grandeur the building was reopened as REÖK, Regionális Összművészeti Központ (Regional United Artist’s Center). Since then there are ongoing exhibitions, theater plays, cultural events for the visitors.

The Animal Park of Szeged.

There had already been talk of making a zoo in Szeged, however, it was only in 1989 when the Animal Park of Szeged was opened. At the beginning of the eighties, university students and teachers built a corral (enclusure) where they kept roe deers and wild hogs. Unofficially, without any permission and support they opened it in 1987. Finally, in 1989 on Children’s Day it was opened officially on just 3-4 hectares for the time being.

The Animal Park of Szeged is the youngest among the Local Government-owned zoos of Hungary, however, it is the biggest among them – it takes 45 hectares area. They set themselves the saving of rare animals as a goal and thus they participate in projects aimed at saving species. They do their best to make the environment of the animals as nature-like as possible. They also take confiscated animals from the border or those kept without permisson and injured ones, and heal them.

University Botanical Garden

It was founded by the leader of the first botanical department of the university, István Győrffy who came from the university of Kolozsvár. The botanical garden recently takes up 17.5 hectares of are, having many domestic and egzotic plants on display. Probably the most beautiful part of the botanical garden is the lukewarm lake, which is suitable to grow indian lotuses. Lotuses bloom in every July, that’s where the most visitors come.

In addition to the greenhouses, arboretum and many other spectacles this place serves to educate students and for research purposes. There are many events and exhibitions and guided tours are organised here throughout the whole year, for example on Earth’s Day or when the lotuses bloom.

University of Szeged

The University of Szeged is not only one of Hungary’s best universities but it is among the most prominent higher education institutions in the world. The SZTE was ranked in the ARWU list of European universities 124th, and the QS World University Rankings put the University of Szeged as 451st-500th among universities globally. There are only two Hungarian universities on this list: ELTE and SZTE. The rankings are based on the number of scientific publications, their citations, the ratio of Hungarian and international teachers and students.

The university has currently almost 30 000 students at the SZTE, among them 1000 international. The university has 12 faculties and more than 320 majors. From 7000 employees altogether more than 2100 belong to the teaching staff. It has 61 partner universities. These numbers clearly show the importance of the SZTE in the education system of Hungary.